Hemmer or feller for sewing-machines



(Model.) 2 sheets-sheer 1.

S. LASKEY. HBMMBR AND PBLLER POR SEWING MACHINES.

No. 457,785. Patented Aug. 18, 1891.

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v(Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet. 2.

S. LASKEY.

, HEMMBR AND FELLER POR SEWING MACHINES. No. 14.57,'785.v y Patented Aug. 18, 1891.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

STEPHEN LASKEY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

HEMIVIER'OR FELLER FOR SEWING-MACHINES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 457,785, dated August 18, 1891.

I Application filed May 10, 1888. Serial No. 273,503. (Model.)

To a/ZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, STEPHEN LASKEY, a citizen of the United States, residing at Chicago, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois,have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in Hemmers or Fellers, which is fully set forth in the following specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure l is a perspective view of a construction embodying my invention; Fig. 2, a similar view showing one of the seams Fig. 3, a similar View showing other forms of seams; Fig. 4, a side elevation; Fig. 5, a front elevation; Fig. 6, a detail sectional view taken on the line l l of Fig. 4; Fig. 7, a detail sectional view taken on the line 2 2 of Fig. at; Fig. 8, a detail plan section taken on the line 3 3 of Fig. 7 5 Fig. 9, a detail bottom plan view of the locking-cam detached; Fig. 10, a side elevation of the attachment, taken from the side opposite to that shown in Fig. 4 and showing the hemmer and feller turned into inoperative position; and Fig. l I, a detail plan view of the feed-dog.

Like letters refer to like parts in all the figures of the drawings.

My invention relates to sewing-machines, and more particularly to that class of sewingmachine attachments known as hem mers or fellers These devices as usually constructed are rigid in all their parts, and while they are adaptedfor use upon smooth fabrics, which present no such inequalities or enlargements as transverse seams, felis, or the like, they are not, for obvious reasons, capable of use where such inequalities or enlargements are present, since if the passages through which the cloth or other fabric passes while being turned upon itself are of such dimensions as to properly effect their purpose these enlargements cannot pass through the same. Other devices of this class are adjustable for the purpose either of obtaining a wider or narrower hem or fell, or for accommodating the device for operation upon a thicker or thinner fabric. This class of devices is also open to the same objections, for the reason that, although adjustable after the parts have once been adjusted, they are rigidin their relation to each other, and consequently form, in eect,\vhile in operation a rigid device.

Still another class exists in which the parts are free to expand and contract with relation to each other, this action taking place automatically during the operation of the device; but in every instance of this kind it will be found that an expansion of one part of the device causes a corresponding contraction of another part thereof,'which will effectually prevent any enlargements of the fabric from passing through the device. Devices have also been heretofore known for hemming and felling-as, for example, in United States Patent No.25,7l5, of I859-in whichvare yielding members through or between which crossseams and other irregularities might pass; but such yielding members yield more or less in the arc of a circle and not in direct lines.

It is the chief object of my present invention to provide a hemmer or feller which willoperate in an effective manner to turn the clothA into the desired position to form the hem or felt-which device will at the same time automatically expand equally throughout and on direct lines when any enlargement of the fabric, such as heretofore have been mentioned, enters the same and permit the same to pass freely through without clogwhich I deem to be new and desire to protect by Letters Patent.

In the drawings, A represents the head of a sewing-machine provided with the needle-bar B, carrying the needle b and actuated in any suitable manner, and the presser-bar C, which is normally depressed by a suitable spring ofV considerable strength, as is usual. To the lower end of ihe presser-bar C is attached aj presser-foot D, which is preferably construct# ed in the manner set forth in an application; filed by me August 29, 1887, Serial No. 248,225,j

It may be connected to the presser-bar in any desired manner, the connection being shown in the presentinstance as eected by forming in the rear portion of the presser-foot, at one side thereof, a groove d, which receives the Iiattened lower' end c of the presser-bar, the two parts being secured in position by means of a screw c. The central portion of the horizontal part of the presser-foot is cut away from front to rear, thus leaving on each side a portion D which is rigid so far as its connection with the presser-bar C is concerned. These side portions are rounded off at their front ends, as shown at d', to permit the cloth to pass readily under the same without catching. In the central cut-away space between these side portions there is arranged the upwardly-yielding center D2, which extends from a point slightly in the rear of the side portions D to about midway of their length, its forward end being inclined upward, as shown, and being provided Vwith an aperture d2, through which the needle passes. plication hereinbefore mentioned this yielding center was connected to the body of the presser-foot by a flexible or pivotal connection. In the present instance I have mounted the same so as to slide vertically upward in a straight line. For this purpose I provide the said center with an upwardly-projecting shank D3, which fits within a corresponding recess D4, formed in the body of the presserfoot. The lower portion of the shank D3 corresponds in diameter to the recess D4, and the said shank is provided with an upward extension dsof less diameter t-han the shank proper. Within the recess D4there is arranged a sprin g D5, coiled around the extension d3 and bearing .against the top of the shank D3 and the top of the recess D4, thus serving to normally depress the yielding center D2. It will be understood, of course, that the spring D5 is a much lighter spring and exerts a much lighter pressure than the spring employed to depress the presser-bar C. The extension cl3 of the shank D3 passes upward through a suitable aperture in the top of the body of the presserfoot and is provided witha collar D6, having cam-inclines d4 and free to rotate on said extension. Corresponding cam-inclines d5 are arranged on the top of the presser-foot D.`

The extension cl3 is provided at its upper end with a cap-piece d5, which serves to hold the collar D6 in position, and the said collar is provided with a handle D7, bent around the presser-bar C, as shown, so as to be within easy reach of the right hand of the operator and serving to rotate the collar. In order to provide means for locking the yielding center rigidly to the presser-foot, I provide in the rear face of the shank. D3 of the center a transverse slot or groove e, as shown in Fig. 4, and to co-operate with this groove there is pivoted on the under side of the body of the presser-foot which projects rearward at this point an eccentric or cam E, its pivot being formed by ascrew e. The cam E is provided with a handle E', by means of which it may be so turned as to cause it to enter the groove The devices for turning the cloth upon itself into proper position to form the hem or fell are mounted upon the forward portion of the presser-foot, one of the side portions or lateral arms D of which is provided at a point slightly in the rear of .its front end with an upright cylindrical post or pin F, which is Screwed into the same, as shown in Fig. 7, or otherwise connected thereto. Upon thispost is mounted a sleeve G, which carries the lower member of the cloth-turning devices. This sleeve is free to move vertically upon the post F and is also capable of being turned around the said post when raised to a suiii cient height, as hereinafter set forth,

g represents a tongue attached to the lower end of the sleeve G, arranged within the cutaway portion of the presser-foot and forming the lower one of the two members which serve to turn the cloth. Its underside is normally flush with the bottom of the presser-foot,.and it is provided on the side adjacent to the sleeve G with a shoulder g', which, when the parts are in operative position, as shown more particularly in Figs. 5 and 7, abuts against the member D of the presser-foot, to which the kpost F is attached, and serves to prevent the rotationof the sleeve Garound said post. The tongue g extends about half-way across the cut-away space between the members D of the presser-foot, and its upper surface is inclined or curved upward, as shown, to properly turn the cloth or other fabric operated upon.

Within the sleeve G there is formed .a central recess or socket G', slotted at the front, as shown at g2, Figs. 7 and 8, and in this recess or socket there is arranged a second sleeve H, which surrounds the post F, and which is free to move vertically on said post both independently of and along with the sleeve G, while itis capable of rotation around the said post along with the said sleeve G. Upon the sleeve H there is mounted, near its lower end, a pin h, extending at right angles to the said sleeve through the slot g2 and serving to carry the upper member H of the cloth-turning device. This upper member consists, preferably, of a roller mounted to revolve upon the pin 7L as an axis and having the form of two truncated cones joined by their apexes. The smaller ot' these cones h forms the end of the roller adjacent to the sleeve H, while the larger of these cones h2 forms the other end of the roller, the entire roller extending entirely across the cut-away space between the lateral arms D of the presser-foot above the lower member g. The

ICG

IID

er-foot shown and described.

surface of the roller is curved at the junction of the two `conical portions thereof, in order to avoid a sharp angle, which might interfere with the turning of the cloth.

The post F extends some distance above the sleeves G and H, and there is coiled around this upper portion of the said post a spring F, the lower end of which bears upon the top of the sleeve H, while its upper end abuts against a cap or head piece f, attached to the upper end of the post F. There isl formed on the upper surface of the lateral arm D', to which the post F is attached, in front of the said post, a transverse groove f of sufcient width to receive the lower member g of the hemmer when the parts are in the position shown in Fig. lO.

Innconnection with the above apparatus I employ a feed-dog, 4which vis constructed to co-operate with the particular form of press- This construction is shown in detail in Fig. 1l of the drawings.

sions are directly under the yielding center D2 of the presser-foot. 'It will be observed that one of these portions J 2 of the feed-dog is practically in the rear of and in line with the needle-aperture 't'.

AThe operation of the device is as follows:

The general operation of the particular form of presser-foot shown and described and the advantages obtained therebyT have been set forth at length in my prior application, hereinbefore referred to, and therefore need no detailed description here. lateral arms or side portions D of the presserfoot bear upon the cloth during the operation of felling upon each side of the fell to be formed, thereby forming gages which accurately determine the width of the fell, while at the same time they serve to hold the cloth down upon the feed-dog at those points where only a single thickness of cloth intervenes between the presser-foot and the feed-dog, with the full pressure due to the heavy spring which depresses the presser-bar. The rough edges to be turned in and stitched thus occupy the central cut-away space between the said lateral arms. The manner in which the turning in of these vparts is effected is illustrated in Fig. 1 of thedrawings, in which the attachment is shown as employed in the operation of hemming. In this latter operation, of course, one of the lateral arms D acts merely as a gage without assisting in the feeding operation. "Fig 2 shows the seam produced inv the operation of felling, bywhich Athe two rough edges are turned in and stitched together, as shown more particularly in section The feed-dog con- It will be observed that the at in Fig. 3. 1f we suppose the seam vbodily-that is to say, evenly or by equal resisting movement on direct lines-to leave space of uniform dimensions sufficiently to allow the said enlargement to readily pass between the same without in anyway interrupting the operation of the device. It will be observed that this separation of the two .members of the hemmer proper produces an enlargement of the passage through which the fabric passes Without in any way contracting any other portion of the device and thus causing it to bind, and in this it is distinguished in details heretofore known of this class, in which a fiat spring having one `fixed and one free end 'in the cloth-turning device forming an enlargement unevenly by Vyielding more at the free end and less at the fixed end, whereby in the passage of thicker cloth or of the seam pressure would not be uniform throughout. It will also be observed that not only can the two members yield upward together, the lower members being held upon the cloth only by the comparatively light pressure of the spring F; but in addition to this the vupper member H is free to yield upward independently of the lower.

member g for the purpose of enlarging the passage, as just described. The upper member being in the form of -a roller, the friction IOC is reduced to a minimum, and the resistance to the operation of the feed which exists in other attachments of this kind is obviated. The hem or fell thus formed passes under the yielding center D2, being stitched just before it passes completely under the same, and the said center rides upon the hem or fell with a comparatively light pressure, in the mannerV and for the purposes set forth in my previous application. The collar D6, with its cam-inclines, serves for the purpose of lifting the IIO center slightly in case of an enlargement of `the cloth, which might tend to clog the apparatus as it passes under the yielding center. To effect this, the operator grasps the handle D7 and presses it back for an instant, thereby.y raising the center suiciently for this purpose. As soon as the enlargement is passed the handle D7 is relaxed and the parts return to their original position. As a rule, however, the center will yield upward automatically sufficiently without necessitating the employment of this device for lifting the same, which is only necessary when heavy goods are being operated upon. The cam E, by its engagement with the slot e, serves as a locking device for the center. AThe necessity of this device ariseswhen the apparatus is employed on a curved seam, such as the hem of a ation of the machine.

round corner, in which case the lateral feed at one side of the seam would prevent the successful turning of the corner. By locking the center and rendering it rigid with the rest of the presser-foot a central feed is obtained, which obviates this disadvantage. The portion J2 of the feed-dog, which is directly in the rear of the needle, and which consequently exerts its pull directly yin therline of the seam, is of special utility in this operation, although it is of course advantageous under all circumstances.

Y It will be observed that the entire hemmer proper is pivoted upon the post F in such manner that it may be swung entirely out of the way when not in use, so that it will not in any Way interfere with 'the ordinary oper- This position of the parts is shown in Fig. l0 of the drawings. When the hemmer is in operative position, as shown in Figs. 5 and 7 of the drawings, the shoulder g locks against the side of the lateral arm D of the presser-foot and holds the hemmer rigidly in line for work. When it is desired to use the presser-foot as van ordinary presser-foot, it is only necessary to raise the hemmer upward upon the post F and give the same a quarter-turn, when it will assume the position shown in Fig. 10, the Atongue g, which forms the lower member, fitting within the groove f and serving to lock the parts in this inoperative position,in

which they are out of the Way. I thus oblain an attachment which may be used either as a hemmer or feller or as an ordinary presser-foot, thereby dispensing with the 'necessity of removing one attachment fromthe presser-bar and substituting another.

AIt is obvious that various modifications in the details of construction may bemade with.- out departing from the principle-of my invention. The particular configuration of the parts which serve to turn the cloth may be varied as desired, provided the gistof the invention,which consists of an automaticallyexpansible hemmer, which during its expansion does not contract any other portion of device, -be retained. I therefore do not wish to be understood as limiting myself strictly to the precise details hereinbefore Yset forth and shown in the drawings.

Having .thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure lby Letters Patent, is-

l. yIn a hemmer or feller, the combination,

with the upwardly-yielding spring-controlled lower cloth-turning member, of the upper cloth-turning member arranged above the former, means for bodily supporting the said members, and a spring arranged to normally retain the said upper member against the lower, but permitting the entire upper member to yield upward independently of the lower member to uniformly and simultaneously enlarge the entire opening between the two members, substantially as and for the purposes speciied.

2. In a hemmer or feller, the combination, with the lower member consisting of a tongue ,provided with a suitably inclined and curved upper surface, of the upper cloth-turning member consisting of a roller composed of two truncated cones joined by their apexes `and arranged to co-operate with said tongue,

substantially as and for the purposes specified.

3. In a hemmer or feller, the combination,

vwith the lower member g, consisting of a provided with a central recess cut from `the front edge of the foot rearward, of the clothturning devices arranged within said recess in the presser-foot, substantially as and for the purposes specified.

5. The combination, with the presser-.foot

,cutaway centrally from front to rear, of an upwardly-yielding center arranged in the rear of said recess, and the cloth-turning devices arranged in the front of said recess,

`substantially as and for the purposes specitied.

6. The combination, withthe Ypresser-foot D, cut away centrally from front to lrear and forming the side portions or lateral arms D', rigidly connected to the presser-bar, of the upwardly-yielding center D2, arranged in the rear portion of the cut-away space and provided with a light spring to depress the same,

and the cloth-turning devices arranged in the front portion of the cut-away space, .capable of yielding upward and provided with a light spring to normally depress the same, substantially as and for the purposes specified.

7: T-he combination, with the presser-foot having a 'vertical pivoting standard thereon, of a spring-controlled cloth-turning device on said standard arranged to be turned aside and held ina turned-out position, substantially as described.

S. The combination, with the presser-foot D, having its central portion cut out `from front to rear, of thecenter piece D2, arranged in said central opening and free to move up and down bodily, a spring arranged to hold the center down to working position, and a handle whereby the attendant may positively lift the center bodily whenever desired, substantiallyv as and for the purposes specified.

9. The combination, with the presser-foot `D, having its centralV portion ont out from front to rear, of the central piece D2, arranged in said central opening,a spring arranged to depress the center to its work, and a lock whereby the centerV may be secured in workingposition and made rigid with-the station- IOO IIO

poses speeied.

l1. The combination, With the presser-foot out away cent-rally from front to rear and provided with lateral arms D', of the upwardly-yielding center D2, arranged between said arms at the rear, and the feed-dog I5 consisting of lateral members J, corresponding?,r in position to the arms D', and lateral extensions J2, arranged under the upwardlyyielding center, substantially as and for the purposes specified.

STEPHEN LASKEY, l Witnesses:

IRVINE MILLER, CARRIE FEIGEL. 

